Parowan Turf, the UTAH Turf Farm :: Only the best sod!

Ground Preparation: After rough grading, add or create a good growing medium by bringing in topsoil and/or amending the existing soil for a soil depth of 6” to 8” or more. A good soil base will give your lawn the advantage for decades to come, including better drought tolerance, deeper root growth to promote water conservation and less watering, better weed resistance, and better disease resistance. Soil should be amended generously, according to existing soil composition, with organic material in the form of compost, soil pep, fine bark mulch, composted grass clippings or leaves, well rotted manure, or other available forms of organic material. This should be tilled in and well mixed with the top 2” to 6” of topsoil. Final grading should bring the soil level within ½” to 1” of grade. Do not worry if the turf ends up a bit below the level of curb, sidewalk or patio, as it will become thicker over the first year or so. Roll, lightly water, or allow it to settle a few days before laying turf.

New Lawn Starter Fertilizer: Just before installing the turf, spread new lawn starter fertilizer over the ground according to package directions. If no new lawn starter fertilizer is available, substitute a regular, balanced fertilizer at half strength. A balanced fertilizer has nearly equal amounts of the three NPK nutrients (16-16-8, 6-10-4, etc.). NEVER USE WEED AND FEED or any fertilizer containing any weed or disease control for new lawn starter. A newly sodded lawn should not need weed control for years; in any case, weed control should never be applied to a lawn less than six months old!

Installing: Plan on installing in areas. Begin installing the turf on the longest straight edge, or create a straight edge by running a string across the area to be sodded. Lay the turf against the straight edge, in shingle pattern, working both across and out. Stagger the joints of the pieces like a brick wall--cut pieces to fit at edges, but put part pieces (less than ½ slab) back from the edge to reduce drying out of the small piece. As soon as an area is installed, begin the initial watering.

Initial Watering: This is the most important watering your lawn will ever need! Within ½ hour of the turf touching the ground, it should be watered. Apply 1” of water, enough to saturate the turf, so the pieces are wet on the bottom in the middle, and the top ½” to 1” of soil is wet. After this, apply ¹/₁₀^” to ¼” of water 2 to 5 times a day, depending on soil type, temperature, wind and humidity. The turf and the top ½” of soil should remain moist but not soggy. Continue in this manner for 10 to 14 days, or until the turf is knitted down, and cannot be lifted up.

The First Two Weeks: Do not walk on the new turf while it is wet. Water as instructed above. Be aware of heat, wind, and humidity; make sure the lawn stays moist, but not swampy. If you grow moss or algae, youre watering too much. For the first couple of weeks, keep traffic to a minimum, like for a newly seeded lawn. At first, you will notice that the soil shifts under the turf, like walking on a rug over mud. As the roots move into the soil, the ground feels firmer under the turf. When the turf is rooted down, and the ground feels firm walking over the turf, the turf is ready for light traffic.

Caring for Young Turf--The next two months: During this period, your new lawn is sending its roots deeper and developing into the kind of lawn you will have for the lifetime of your yard. Water deeply at increasingly longer intervals to get your lawn in the habit of growing deep roots and using the entire soil water reservoir before being watered. The goal is to water 1” per watering, but only water every 4 to 8 days or more, depending on the season, the temperature, and the humidity. You can tell when the lawn needs water by looking at it. If possible, use a soil probe to determine how deeply the water is penetrating and how deep the roots have grown. The lawn can now tolerate increasing traffic.

Maintaining Established Turf: Water requirements: Water deeply at irregular intervals as needed. Apply ½” to 1” of water per application, depending on your soil type and site conditions. (Your County Extension Agent can advise you.) Let your turfgrass show stress before watering again. When the lawn shows a darker cast in areas, it is beginning to dry out and show stress. It is time to water again. By observing this you can establish a water schedule, typically every 5 to 7 days when the temperature is in the 80’s to 90’s. When the weather is cooler in spring and fall, extend the time between applications; when the temperatures are above 95 degrees, water more often. When the blades turn grayish, they are wilted; the lawn will recover well if watered at this point, but footprints will show for a week or so as brown spots. When the blades turn brown, the turf has begun to go dormant, and will require regular watering for 2 to 4 weeks to return to its deep green color.

During periods of extreme heat and drought, it is normal for the turf to want to go dormant. In drought conditions, when water is rationed, allow the turf to go dormant by cutting back the water to ½” to ¼” every 2 weeks. Even though the turf turns brown and looks dead above the ground, this will keep the roots of the lawn alive for the rest of the season, and allow more water for trees and shrubs that will die if not watered. At the end of the season, when the rains come, or when more water is available, bring the turf out of dormancy by resuming regular watering. Apply a balanced fertilizer and mow again at 1” to 1 ½” for a period, then grow the lawn back to 2” in height before mowing. A well-established lawn can easily survive a one-season drought in this manner.

Fertilization requirements: Your turf will need 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1000 square feet per application. To maintain the normal dark green color through the heat, apply a smaller amount of nitrogen with an iron supplement in July. Use a balanced winterizer fertilizer each fall after the lawn has quit growing fast but before it goes dormant. Ammonium sulphate or another high nitrogen fertilizer may be used around the first of June.

Mowing requirements: Your turf will do best if mowed at about 2” to 2 ½”; use a mulching mower to return the nutrients in the blades to the soil. Mow when you will be removing ¼ to ¹/₃ of the total blade length. If you are watering and fertilizing properly, you will notice that your lawn does not grow fast after the spring moisture is gone.

Other maintenance practices: Power rake in the fall if thatch build-up becomes a problem. Aeration will be beneficial to reduce compaction in high traffic or heavy use areas. Use weed killer, fungicide, or insecticide only when necessary; identify the pest and use the products and management practices that will best control it. The best defense against problems is a well-maintained lawn.

Your new lawn will be beautiful for years to come!